jonfr
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2006 5:23 am

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I know everything about indoor noise. Since I have to have my geophone inside also. It's a annoying noise, but at current time there isn't alot that I can do about.

I plan to add a resistance (ohm) into the seismometer, what type I haven't figured out yet.

 

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 12:05 am

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Would the added resistance be for added damping or possibly for noise reduction?

 

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 1:17 am

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Terry wrote:

Would the added resistance be for added damping or possibly for noise reduction?


I am going to increase the damping, electronic type of noise is going to get filtered out by screened cable. The other source of noise, well. I am just going to have live with that. But there isn't alot of noise at 2Hz and below, for instance, I lowpass my online plots down to 5Hz and they are flat most of the time becose of that.

 

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 4:16 am

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Hi Terry:

I ran across your site a few weeks ago and have watched with interest the discussion of the PVC seismometer of your design. It is an interesting design with remarkable performance given the simplicity of construction. A few questions:

1. How critical is maintaining vertical plumb when cementing the tube in the hole? What technique did you use to insure alignment?
2. Any insight on how critical it is to establish a direct interface with bedrock? In middle Georgia this can be very problematic. One option I have considered is driving a rebar rod eight to ten feet in the soil and then attaching the PVC base to a concrete pad poured around the top of the rod.
3. Which amplifier board are you using (Larry’s or a custom board)?

I plan on constructing a similar unit this summer to compare with a “C Spring Seismometer” designed by R. Sparks. This is a project for a small local high school to introduce the students to basics of seismology.

 

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 5:14 am

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Hi, tim_ga
Welcome to the board ! I am glad to see you have an interest in this seismometer . I hope I can answer your questions.

1. How critical is maintaining vertical plumb when cementing the tube in the hole? What technique did you use to insure alignment?

Well it needs to be vertical for the least amount of damping and maximum period. However since this unit is “some what” tunable it can tolerate a small amount of tilt. The down side is the more severe the tilt is the closer the magnets need to be placed to maintain operation. With that being said I leveled mine with an ordinary bubble level and it seems to work fine.

2. Any insight on how critical it is to establish a direct interface with bedrock?
In middle Georgia this can be very problematic. One option I have considered is driving a rebar rod eight to ten feet in the soil and then attaching the PVC base to a concrete pad poured around the top of the rod.


I understand your problem and I have found in the past that the larger the mass is that you attach a seismometer to the better. However sometimes it is just not possible but I would say that you have a workable solution with the rebar rod .

3. Which amplifier board are you using (Larry’s or a custom board)?

The board that I am using is my own design and over the years it has gone though several evolutions .


Terry

 

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2006 12:15 am

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Basic list of what is needed to build this seismometer.

Antenna.
Concrete.
magnets.
A pot for the molde to build the pad for the pvc seismometer.
rods.
coil.
PVC (??)

I am going to add numbers to this list, when I am sure I got it right.

 

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2006 1:15 am

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Yes that’s a good start on the list there are some small things left out. The magnet mounts - which are really antenna mounts soldered to washers .

Remember to trail fit everything over and over .

Image
I found this picture of the coil form (at the time of this picture the coil had not been wound ) ,the bottom floater magnet with the mount and the 3in. or 7.62 cm PVC pipe coupler . The magnet is 5.53 cm across

Terry

 

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 3:12 am

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I plan to start building this seimsmometer next week, I am going to start with the base it self. What is the rod long and thik that is in the concrete ?

 

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 10:33 am

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I think 5/16’s of an inch is .97536 cm. and 20 threads per inch . The main thing is the base rod needs to fit the bottom of the antenna mount and extend down in to the concrete . The length of the base rod depends upon the depth of the mold . In my example I used a old flower pot as a mold . I also welded some small pieces of metal to the part of the rod that was submerged in the base concrete. That will secure the rod in the concrete and keep it from turning .

Also remember that the antenna rod you use must be .062 in or 1.5748 mm in diameter. If you use a different diameter antenna rod it will change the response of the seismometer .

Terry

 

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 10:18 pm

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I have made a small modifaction. I am going to use a whole rod, the rod is going to be 50 - 60 cm and is going to be whole from the concreate and is going to hold the first magent. This is not a huge diffrent from your drawing, but I won't be using a PVC antenna as you do.

 

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 11:25 pm

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I would not think that would impact the operation of the seismometer as long as the rod diameter is the same . Once I made one without the coil spring at the bottom. The rod seemed to be stiffer and the unit lost some sensitivity . However by making the rod longer it might make up the difference . This of course would change the period of the seismometer.

But with that being said, experimentation is what makes this hobby so much fun.
I was running some test on another seismometer over the weekend . The distance between the coil and magnet and with varying strengths of magnets . I came up with some surprising results . I will post them at a later date.


Terry Smile

 

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 0